Frequently Asked Questions

1. What size should I make the rough opening for your windows?
2. Can I paint my vinyl windows?
3. What is the R-Value of your windows?
4. How long does it take to get windows if I order today?
5. The glass in my windows has condensation between the panes. Can you fix it or do I have to buy a new window?
6. Will you be able to match the stucco when you replace my windows, or will it look like a patch?
7. What should I use to clean my vinyl windows?
8. What happens if I use an after-market film product on my Van Isle Windows?
9. What if I have a concern about the operation of the windows supplied?
10. What are acceptable viewing standards for residential glass?
11. Will my new vinyl windows “sweat”?
12. What causes condensation on windows?
13. Do windows cause condensation?
14. Can I reduce the condensation on my windows?
15. Why do insulating glass units fail?
16. The grey spacer between the panes of glass is showing small cracks. Is the sealed unit failing?
17. Why does the slider on my new patio door not operate as smoothly as the one I saw in the showroom?
18. The handle on my patio door screen hits the door when opening. Is it made correctly?
19. If I opt for high performance glass in my new windows, will it affect my house plants?
20. What is Low-E glass?
21. Is Low-E a worthwhile option?
22. What does Argon gas do in a window?
23. What is thermal stress glass breakage?
24. How can I reduce traffic noise?

• What size should I make the rough opening for your windows? 
• For standard size new construction windows, usually 1 " under the nominal size of the window, which will allow 1/4" clearance all around. For example, for a 4030 XO window, make the RO 47" X 35".
• If you order a custom sized (heel dimension must be stated) window, the window will be the heel dimension ordered, so you will need to make the rough opening that size PLUS whatever clearance you wish, usually 1/4" all around.
• The Heel Dimension is the actual size of the window frame not including the nailing flange or rebate flange.  On standard size new construction windows the heel dimension is 1 1/2" less than the nominal size.  For example, a 4030 window has a heel dimension (actual size) of 46 1/2" X 34 1/2".
• NOTE that standard size patio doors should be framed full size.  For example, for a 6068 XO patio door, make the RO 72" X 80".
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• Can I paint my vinyl windows? 
• You shouldn't because it will probably void the manufacturers warranty on the frame material and may cause the material to warp. However, we offer factory applied colour finishes on our windows. We are able to do this and still warranty the product because we use a specifically formulated coating designed for this application which is guaranteed not to chip, crack, flake, or cause the window frame to warp or buckle.
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• What is the R-Value of your windows? 
• That's a good question, but unfortunately the answer is not so simple, Window thermal performance is measured as a U-Value which Is the reciprocal of the R-Value ( R-Value = 1/U-Value. For example. R 2 = U .50, or 1/.50 = 2) A bit of background: the R-Value measures the resistance to heat loss or gain, while the U-Value measures the transmittance of heat through a material. The higher the number in R-Value the better the resistance, so the better the insulating value. The lower the number in U-Value the less the transmittance, so the better the insulating value.
• Even if we rephrase the question to U-Value from R-Value there is no one easy answer, it depends on the type of window (opening, non-opening, sliding, etc.), the frame type (aluminum or vinyl) and the type of glazing. For example sake, a typical single glazed aluminum window has a U-Value of 1.25, and a double glazed vinyl window could range anywhere from .51 to .34 depending on the type and options. If you contact us and ask specifically about a certain type with certain options, we'll be able to give you a number. But don't get caught up solely in the numbers game, thermal performance is only one factor to be considered in choosing the window that is right for you.
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• How long does it take to get windows if I order today? 
• Normally the production time for windows is ten working days, not including the order day. Custom shapes such as round tops take longer, usually three to four weeks. If your windows are being installed by us, you should allow three to four weeks. If you really, really need to have the window in a hurry, ask your sales representative about our EXPRESS WINDOW SERVICE. You could have the window(s) in as quickly as two days!
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• The glass in my windows has condensation between the panes. Can you fix it or do I have to buy a new window? 
• Usually the glass can be replaced with a new sealed unit without disturbing the window. If the window is relatively new, some or all of the cost may be covered under the manufacturers warranty.
• Some of the older, first generation thermal windows used a very narrow air space or thinner gauge glass which is no longer available. In this case the thermal unit couldn't be replaced and a new window would be required. Before you decide to replace a failed thermal unit, you should always inspect the whole window to make sure your money is being well spent. For example, if the weather stripping is worn or missing, or the hinges, rollers, or locks are in poor condition your better value may be to replace the entire window since just replacing the glass will not address the operating or insulating problems caused by the worn components.
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• Will you be able to match the stucco when you replace my windows, or will it look like a patch? 
• It seems that it's almost impossible to patch stucco without it looking like a patch, that's why we don't even try. When we replace old single glazed aluminum windows, our preferred method is to "cap" the old window frame. We leave the old frame in place and make the new window to fit perfectly over it. The old window frame disappears completely in almost every case. There are several benefits to this system, apart from not having to patch stucco, the most important being that we are able to maintain the integrity of the wall at the window opening. The original window frame and how it was installed was designed to shed water to the outside of the house, and we don't want to disturb that. If the old windows aren't leaking nothing that we do in the "capping" process will cause a leak.
• Some companies will remove the old window completely by cutting around the perimeter of the frame. They then install the new window into the opening with a wide flange on the outside and caulk this flange to the stucco.  In our view, for the reasons outlined above, this method increases the chance of water entering the building at the window opening (a leak), and therefore we won't do it.
• If the window replacement requires that the old window frame be removed completely, then we treat it like a new construction application. We use the appropriate window frame, with caulking, flashing where required, and sealing tapes and install it according to accepted building methods. We then install a wooden strip around the window to create the finished look. This finish strip is caulked where it meets the stucco to keep water out.
• If your existing windows are old wood framed windows, then we leave the existing frame in place, remove the sashes and make the new window to fit into the original frame. The result is that you have brand new, low maintenance, energy efficient windows that operate smoothly but the look of your home hasn't really changed since the original frame and brick mould are still in place. And, of course, the stucco hasn't been affected.
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• What should I use to clean my vinyl windows? 
• Common sense mainly. Never use an abrasive cleanser or cleaning pad as this may scratch the vinyl frame material or glass.
• To clean the vinyl frame, use a mild detergent and water or one of the common household cleaners. For hard to clean marks or scuffs, try using varsol on a clean cloth and rub lightly.
• To clean the glass use one of the commercially available glass cleaners, or a mixture of ammonia and water or vinegar and water. Don't mix vinegar and ammonia together with water because one tends to neutralize the other.
• Be careful not to drip cleaning solutions on the woodwork as it may damage the finish. Washing windows in direct sunlight makes them more difficult to clean as they have a tendency to streak.
• Rubber squeegees are good for cleaning windows too. but they take a bit of practice to get the best results. Stroke from top to bottom, wiping the squeegee after each stroke.
• An extension wand brush Is also good for cleaning the outside of the windows, and some can be attached to your garden hose so that you're flushing the glass with clean water, but you should make sure that the water volume is low.
• Don't spray the window with a jet of water from your garden hose as this may cause the window to leak, nor should you apply a large volume of water to the window for the same reason. Sliding windows are particularly vulnerable to allowing water in under these circumstances.
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• What happens if I use an after-market film product on my Van Isle Windows?
  
  • The use of after-market films and coatings will void any remaining warranty.
  • Although these films are normally very effective in reducing fading, heat gain, and glare, and providing additional security (in fact they are usually very similar to the Low-E coatings or laminated glass which we sell), the reason that it voids the warranty is due to the way that these films are applied. The films are usually applied to the inside of the windows (on the #4 surface), and this can cause heat and UV to reflect back into the sealed unit causing premature failure and an increased risk of thermal stress breakage.
  • In addition, if the glass is scored during the installation process this can create an increased risk of glass breakage.
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• What if I have a concern about the operation of the windows supplied.
  
  • If a Van Isle Windows installation crew has done the work then we will warrant all parts of the job (within the terms & conditions of the warranty).
    
    
  • If the installation has been done by a third party and the operational defect is due to an installation issue, then Van Isle Windows is not responsible for the labour cost to repair the problem.
    
    
  • If the problem is due to a production error or fault in the materials used, then Van Isle Windows will repair or replace the item as required.
  
  
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• What are acceptable viewing standards for residential glass?
  
  • Both panes of the glass sealed unit should be viewed at right angles to the glass from the room side at a distance of approx 2 metres in natural daylight (not direct sunlight).
    The area to be viewed is the normal vision area, with the exception of a 5 cm wide band around the perimeter of the unit.
    Flat glass shall be deemed acceptable if the following phenomena are neither obtrusive nor bunched:
    1. Totally enclosed seeds, bubble or blisters
       
    2. Hairlines or blobs
       
    3. Fine scratches not more than 2.5 cm long
       
    4. Minute embedded particles

    Obtrusiveness of blemishes is judged by looking through the glass, not at it, under normal daylight conditions as described above.

  
  
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• Will my new vinyl windows “sweat”?
  
  • Condensation on windows is caused by high humidity levels in the home. It is not the installation of new windows that is at fault. If the humidity levels are too high there can be some condensation forming on the glass surface or window frames. Proper ventilation techniques are need to control the humidity level in your home.
    
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• What causes condensation on windows?
  • When there is excess humidity in the home, it manifests itself in the form of condensation on the coldest area of a wall, which is normally the windows. The warmer the air, the more moisture it will retain. When the air in your home comes in contact with the colder glass surface, it is subsequently cooled and moisture is released in the form of condensation on the glass.
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• Do windows cause condensation?
  • No, condensation on windows is not the fault of the window. Condensation between the glass panes indicates that the window seal has failed, and this failure may be covered by the manufacturers warranty. Sometimes with home renovations; replacing drafty windows or installing a new roof, you are reducing air flow in your home and making it more airtight. If the humidity levels stay the same as before the renovation then the tighter home will retain more humidity and condensation may present a problem.
    
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• Can I reduce the condensation on my windows?
• Yes. In order to reduce condensation, humidity must be controlled and air movement must be generated. As the exterior temperature drops, the humidity level needs to decrease if condensation is to be controlled:
  • Use exhaust fans in your kitchen, laundry and bathrooms.
    
  • Vent gas burners, dryers, etc. to the outside.
    
  • Shut off furnace humidifiers and other humidifying devices in your home during the colder weather.
    
  • Use vapor barriers on the earth floor of your crawl space.
    
  • Air out your house for a few minutes each day if possible.


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• Why do insulating glass units fail?
  
  • The most common reasons for unit failure are:
    
    1. Exposure to water - units that are not set on blocks at the bottom or which are glazed into windows that do not provide adequate drainage tend to sit in puddles of water and can fail prematurely.
       
    2. Excess heat - on windows with direct sun exposure, heat causes the panes to expand and contract. This movement can weaken the seals until they develop a crack in the sealing compound, which allows moist air to enter.
       
    3. Poor spacer corner or joint construction.
       
    4. Incompatibility of glazing materials with the insulating glass sealants - chemical break down of seal. Silicone sealer can cause this, also window washing with cleaning products that are chemically incompatible.
       
    5. Old age - even the most elastic, flexible seal can’t last forever. Eventually a seal will allow moisture to enter the space between the panes of glass.


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• The grey spacer between the panes of glass is showing small cracks. Is the sealed unit failing?
  • No, the unit is operating as expected. The material that makes up the soft part of the spacer bar (Duraseal) will dry in normal light conditions and may develop small cracks at the surface. This does not affect the quality of the seal, nor is it a warranty issue.
    
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• Why does the slider on my new patio door not operate as smoothly as the one I saw in the showroom?
  
  • The wheels on new patio doors are adjusted to maximum height for manufacturing purposes. All doors must be adjusted after installation. The best way to adjust the wheels is to first take the weight of the door off the wheels, then turn the set screw to lower the wheel. This may need to be done several times in order to find the appropriate level and square position for the slider frame.
  
  
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• The handle on my patio door screen hits the door when opening. Is it made correctly?
  
  • Yes, the screen frame is offset to compensate for this. The adjusting screws for the screen wheels need to be facing the interior of the house. If the screen is installed‘backwards’ then the handle hits the patio door.


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• If I opt for high performance glass in my new windows, will it affect my house plants?
  • No, although glass does reduce light coming in. Clear glass is comparable to growing plants in a slightly hazy atmosphere. The effect of Low E products is to reduce lighting levels to about 70 to 75% of full sunlight. This does not appear to adversely affect plant growth, especially since most house plants are selected for their ability to grow under lower light conditions.

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• What is Low-E glass?
  • The term Low-E glass is an abbreviation for Low-emissivity glass. This glass is made with a coating on the glass which reflects heat (energy) waves. There are basically two types, hard coat Low-E and soft coat Low-E, and they perform differently. Both are good at keeping the heat inside your home, and both will keep some heat from entering through the glass.
    
  • Soft coat Low-E is best at keeping heat from getting into your home, so if you have rooms that are overheating because of direct sunlight this may be the solution. Like many other things in life though, you will have to give up something to get something. For example, if you choose the soft-coat product to keep the heat out in the summer, it also means that you give up getting passive solar heat in the winter months. The hard-coat product would allow more of this type of heat in, in winter and summer.
  • Hard coat Low-E is best at controlling radiated type heat, so it’s great at keeping heat inside your home, and also at keeping radiated heat (for example,from decks, driveways, and sidewalks) from entering. Because it allows direct heat through the glass, you will get some heat gain which may be a problem in summer and a benefit in the other seasons., Generally speaking, for where we live the hard coat Low-E performs more of what we need, keeping heat in.
  • Something of which you also need to be aware is the fact that, because the glass is coated with a metallic film to give it the properties that allow it to reflect heat inside or outside, at times it will appear to be hazy. When the sun shines on the glass at a certain angle the glass will look as though it needs to be cleaned. This is normal, and fortunately does not last long. As the sun moves and the angle of contact with the glass shifts the haziness will go away and the glass will appear clear again.
  • Thermal stress cracks can occur more often in Low-E glass because of its heat retention / reflection qualities. Usually this happens when the glass is partially shaded. For example, a window that has direct sunshine on the lower part while the top is in the shade of the roof overhang. Stress in created in the pane of glass because it is not being heated uniformly, and the stress is relieved when the glass cracks. Cracks or broken glass are not covered under warranty, regardless of the cause.
  • Condensation may form on the outside of the exterior pane of glass in certain circumstances. This is acceptable and indicates that the Low-E glass is doing what it’s supposed to do, keep heat inside. Exterior condensation is dew, similar to that which forms on grass during damp, clear nights. The problem is that a highly insulated glass unit exacerbates the situation by keeping the exterior glass surface cooler than normal. When the glass is warmed by the sun or air the condensation will dissipate.
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• Is Low-E a worthwhile option?
  • Probably, but it depends on what you want to get from your windows. It is effective at saving energy and makes your home more comfortable. The haziness that appears at times when the sun shines through certain windows, though brief, may be annoying. So that may be a consideration.
  • At this time, Low-E glass is an option that you can choose to have in your new windows or not. There is talk now of making changes to the building code regulations which would require windows to be Energy Star rated, and it is very likely that in order to qualify for Energy Star, windows would have to utilize some form of Low-E glass.
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• What does Argon gas do in a window?
  • Argon gas is colourless, odourless, non-toxic, non corrosive and non-flammable. Argon occurs naturally in the atmosphere, making up about 1% of the air we breath. It is about 30% less thermally conductive than air and is therefore used in sealed units to reduce heat loss or heat gain. Argon is most commonly combined with Low-E glass and replaces the air between the two panes of glass in sealed units. Used by itself, without being combined with high performance glass, argon will give roughly a 5% improvement in efficiency.
  • There has been some debate over the issue of argon leaking from sealed units, however the latest research suggests that sealed units retain argon for longer than previously thought. Duraseal brand spacer is promoted by its manufacturer, Truseal Technologies, as being extremely effective at retaining argon.
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• What is thermal stress glass breakage?
  • Thermal stress breakage occurs as a result of uneven heating in the glass. When part of the glass expands with heat and another part of the glass resists expansion because it is not being heated, stresses build up in the pane. When the stress is greater than the strength of the glass a thermal break will occur. Typical conditions are:
    • A sunny, cold winter day. Typically part of the window may be shaded under an overhang, behind a corner of the building, by a tree, or a neighbouring building.
    • Blinds or drapes can reflect heat back into a sealed unit. If proper clearance between the glass and the blind is not maintained it can exaggerate this problem and overheat the glass.
    • Something placed on the inside of the window, for example a sign, can also create the conditions to cause thermal stress to occur.
    • A hot, sunny, summer day. This is less common but can occur especially if heat is being reflected back through the window by blinds or drapes.
  • Common signs of thermal stress are:
    
  • An unusual “s” shaped or tight curve to the break.
  • The panes will not be lined up as in an impact break, they will have jumped out of alignment.
  • There will be a small shell along the break where the glass broke as the panes moved out of alignment.
  • Thermal stress is most commonly seen in glass that retains heat, such as Low-E glass, tinted glass, and sometimes reflective glass when the coating is on the #2 side. Tempered glass is resistant to thermal stress.
  • A window can be fine for a number of years and then one day the conditions will be just right and it will crack. This is not something that we can warrant because we have no control over the environmental conditions that cause the problem.
  • For more information use the following link:
    
    http://www.ppg.com/glasstechlib/85_TD109%20Rev2%2030%20Oct%202002.pdf [requires Adobe Acrobat]
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• How can I reduce traffic noise?
  • Sometimes a customer will want to reduce sound when having new windows installed. This is most often traffic noise, although we have supplied glass for radio station sound booths as well as to people who live near airports. The simple solution is to substitute laminated safety glass for one of the panes of a double glazed unit. In most cases this will give you about a 50% reduction in traffic noise. This is the quick, easy answer and usually the best solution. There are also other advantages to using laminated glass. It helps to reduce fading, is used for added safety in case of earthquakes and provides added security against burglars.
  • Exact figures of how much sound is being reduced are very difficult to determine for a number of reasons:
    • The effectiveness of any solution varies with the decibel level of the sound being screened. The figures which we rely on are based on averages and may not be accurate in all cases.
      
    • Test results are not available for all products from each testing agency.
      
    • Translating the results into understandable terms can be difficult.
      
  • Acoustical performance is rated as Sound Transmission Class [STC] in decibels. A higher STC rating means that less sound is transmitted through a material. A window which utilizes a 3 mm. glass sealed unit with a 1/2" air space has an STC rating of 29 according to most authorities. The same window with 3 mm. glass on one pane of the sealed unit and 6 mm. laminated glass for the other pane will have an STC rating of about 39. This represents about a 50% reduction in loudness.
    
    If you would like more detailed information check this site:
    
    http://www.saflex.com/pages/technical/acoustical.asp
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